By: Karin Beuerlein
Published: June 14, 2011

Is energy performance key for your next appliance or home system? Use Energy Star, the Consortium on Energy Efficiency, and Energy Guide to untangle the options. Energy Star is the name you likely know, but if truly stellar energy performance revs your motor, go straight to the Consortium for Energy Efficiency (CEE). 

What it means:  CEE rates appliances, electronics, lighting, HVAC systems, and gas heating systems. At the website, you can download lists of products that meet CEE’s criteria. Do it before you shop because — bummer — CEE doesn't put a label on compliant products. CEE ratings are so stringent that the highest-rated Energy Star products are considered the low end of CEE’s roster (and Energy Star isn’t shabby!): Appliances and HVAC systems are grouped into three tiers, taking both energy performance and water usage (if applicable) into account.
  • Tier 1 products meet Energy Star requirements at a minimum.
  • Tier 3 products are super-efficient—the cream of the crop.
CEE updates its ratings every month.

Pricing:  Often high-efficiency products rated by CEE (and Energy Star) are more expensive than their less-efficient peers, but may cost less to operate annually. Speaking of Energy Star...

Energy Star
What it means:  Energy Star, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's flagship label, identifies roughly the top 25% of each product category it rates in terms of energy performance. It's the best-known and most widely applied green stamp of approval, covering more than 50 product categories, including applianceslightingplumbing, andheating and cooling systems.  

Bad press leads to more reliable Energy Star ratings:  Energy Star beefed up its standards after getting bad press in 2010, when the U.S. Government Accountability Office reported it was able to get fake products approved. All products must now be individually reviewed by Energy Star staff and tested by approved third-party labs. But Energy Star is still trustworthy, says BuildingGreen, an independent company that educates building professionals on green product certifications:
  • Its standards get more stringent every two years to coincide with manufacturing cycles for new products.
  • It responded quickly after being called on the carpet by changing its product approval process.
It's easy to find Energy Star labels in the store, but if you want to research your purchase in advance, download compliant product lists.

Pricing:  Often high-efficiency products rated by Energy Star are more expensive than their less-efficient counterparts, but you save money on annual operating costs. 

Energy Guide
OK, one more rating label to add to the mix. You’ve probably seen the ubiquitous yellow Energy Guide sticker on new appliances in stores. 

What it means:  Energy Guide lists the manufacturers' self-reported performance numbers, not the results of independent third-party testing. Plus, those numbers may not reflect how you'll use the product in your own home (do you make a special effort to use the most energy-efficient settings at all times, or do you dry tons of laundry on high heat?) or the rates your utility charges. So if you use Energy Guide labels at all, use them to compare models in the store in terms of up-front cost vs. annual operating cost. But the labels don't provide enough context to tell you whether a product is really the best energy-saving deal you can get for the price. That's where Energy Star and CEE come in.

Pricing: Energy Guide labels are government mandated and appear on all products in all price ranges. So it's not a way to sort by price.
Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. 
 
 
By: Pat Curry
Published: March 25, 2011

Remove stains from walls before you slap on another coat: It's the first commandment of painting. Here’s how to wash seven common stains off your walls.

Dirt and grime
Dirt and grime are part of everyday life. The oil from your hands gets onto walls, cabinets, doors, and door frames. Mr. Clean Magic Eraser ($3 for 4 pads) easily cuts through these stains. Wet the sponge and rub gently to avoid taking bits of paint off with the stain.

Or try this: Mix 1 cup ammonia, ½ cup white distilled or apple cider vinegar, and ¼ cup baking soda with one gallon of warm water. Wipe the solution over walls with a sponge or cloth, and rinse with clear water. The solution won’t dull the painted finish or leave streaks. 

Grease
Grease is an occupational hazard of cooking; it covers cabinets and walls and attracts dirt and dust. Any good dish soap can remove grease stains on walls. For small stains, mix ¼ teaspoon of soap in a cup of warm water, and wipe. Rinse with clean water, and blot until dry. Clean stubborn grease stains with solution of 1/3 cup of white household vinegar with 2/3 cup of water.

Crayons
Wall erasers work like a charm on crayon marks. If they don’t do the trick:
  • Rub marks with toothpaste (not gel).
  • Erase marks with an art gum or a pencil eraser; use a circular motion.
  • Swipe marks with baby wipes.
  • Sprinkle baking soda on a damp sponge and scrub marks.
Permanent marker
Permanent markers are tough to remove from walls. Soak a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol and dab the stain. Or spray marks with hairspray, then wipe drips.

Ink
Ballpoint ink, which is oil-based, often succumbs to foaming shaving cream, dry-cleaning solvent such as Carbona, or nail polish remover. Make sure you open windows when using cleaning solvents and polish remover.

Mildew
Mildew is a fungus that eats soap scum and body oil. To remove from walls, spray with vinegar water: 1 tablespoon white vinegar to 1 quart water. Also, try an enzyme laundry detergent; follow the pre-treating directions on the label. Blot it on the stain, and then rinse thoroughly with water.

Water stains
After you’ve solved the problem that caused the water stains, rinse with a solution of 1 cup bleach to 1 gallon of water to prevent mold and mildew from growing. Thoroughly dry with a hairdryer or fans. If bleaching doesn’t remove water stains, you’ll have to repaint. Prime the walls with a stain-killing primer, such as Kilz Paint. 

Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.
 
 
By: John Riha
Published: March 25, 2011

Kitchen remodeling can turn a ho-hum room into your home’s pride and joy. Here are strategies to help your project run smoothly. A significant portion of kitchen remodeling costs may be recovered by the value the project brings to your home. Kitchen remodels in the $50,000 to $60,000 range recoup about 69% of the initial project cost at the home’s resale, according to recent data from Remodeling Magazine’s Cost vs. Value Report.   To make sure you maximize your return, follow these seven smart kitchen remodeling strategies.

ESTABLISH PRIORITIES:
The National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) recommends spending at least six months planning your kitchen remodeling project. That way, you won’t be tempted to change your mind during construction, create change orders, and inflate construction costs. Here are planning points to cover:
  • Cooking traffic patterns: A walkway through the kitchen should be at least 36 inches wide. Work aisles should be a minimum of 42 inches wide and at least 48 inches wide for households with multiple cooks.
  • Child safety: Avoid sharp, square corners on countertops, and make sure microwave ovens are installed at the proper height—3 inches below the shoulder of the primary user but not more than 54 inches from the floor.
  • Outside access: If you want easy access to entertaining areas, such as a deck or patio, factor a new exterior door into your plans.
A professional designer can simplify your kitchen remodel. Pros help make style decisions, foresee potential problems, and schedule contractors. Expect fees around $50 to $150 per hour, or 5% to 15% of the total cost of the project.

KEEP THE SAME FOOTPRINT:
No matter the size and scope of your kitchen remodel, you can protect your budget by maintaining the same footprint: Keep the walls, locate new plumbing fixtures near existing plumbing pipes, and forget bump-outs. Not only will you save on demolition and reconstruction costs, you’ll cut the amount of dust and debris your project generates.

GET REAL ABOUT APPLIANCES:
It’s easy to get carried away during your kitchen remodeling project. A six-burner commercial-grade range and luxury-brand refrigerator may make eye-catching centerpieces, but they may not fit your cooking needs or lifestyle. High-priced appliances are worth the investment if you’re an exceptional cook. Otherwise, save thousands with trusted brands that receive high marks at consumer review websites, like www.ePinions.com and www.amazon.com, and resources such as Consumer Reports.

LIGHT YOUR WAY:
Good kitchen lighting helps you work safely and efficiently.
  • Install task lighting, such as recessed or track lights, over sinks and food prep areas; assign at least two fixtures per task to eliminate shadows. Under-cabinet lights illuminate cleanup and are great for reading cookbooks. Pendant lights over counters bring the light source close to work surfaces.
  • Ambient lighting includes flush-mounted ceiling fixtures, wall sconces, and track lights. Pair dimmer switches with ambient lighting to control intensity and mood.
BE QUALITY CONSCIOUS:
Functionality and durability should be top priorities during kitchen remodeling. Resist low-quality bargains, and choose products that combine low maintenance with long warranty periods. Solid-surface countertops, for instance, may cost a little more, but with the proper care, they’ll look great for a long time. If you’re planning on moving soon, products with substantial warranties are a selling advantage. “Individual upgrades don’t necessarily give you a 100% return,” says Frank Gregoire, a real estate appraiser in St. Petersburg, Fla. “But they can give you an edge when it comes time to market your home.”

ADD STORAGE NOT SPACE:
Here’s how you can add storage without bumping out walls:
  • Install cabinets that reach the ceiling: They may cost more--and you might need a stepladder--but you’ll gain valuable storage space for Christmas platters and other once-a-year items. In addition, you won’t have to dust cabinet tops.
  • Hang it up: Mount small shelving units on unused wall areas and inside cabinet doors; hang stock pots and large skillets on a ceiling-mounted rack; and add hooks to the backs of closet doors for aprons, brooms, and mops.
COMMUNICATE EARLY AND OFTEN:
Establishing a good rapport with your project manager or construction team is essential for staying on budget. To keep the sweetness in your project:
  • Drop by the project during work hours: Your presence broadcasts your commitment to quality.
  • Establish a communication routine: Hang a message board on site where you and the project manager can leave daily communiqués. Give your email address and cell phone number to subs and team leaders.
  • Set house rules: Be clear about smoking, boom box noise levels, available bathrooms, and appropriate parking.
John Riha has written seven books on home improvement and hundreds of articles on home-related topics. He's been a residential builder, the editorial director of the Black & Decker Home Improvement Library, and the executive editor of Better Homes and Gardens magazine. His standard 1972 suburban house has been an ongoing source of maintenance experience.  

Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. 
 
 
By: John Riha
Published: March 4, 2011

Here’s how to get the bathroom of your dreams without making your budget a nightmare.  A bathroom remodel is a solid investment, according to Remodeling Magazine’s annual Cost vs. Value Report. A $16,600 bath remodel will recoup about 64% of those costs when it’s time to sell your home, and a more extensive $53,800 job returns about 57%. In addition, you can maximize the value of your investment by using these smart strategies, which will create a stylish yet budget-friendly bathroom.

1. STICK TO A PLAN
bathroom remodel is no place for improvisation. Before ripping out the first tile, think hard about how you will use the space, what materials and fixtures you want, and how much you’re willing to spend. The National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) recommends spending up to six months evaluating and planning before beginning work. That way, you have a roadmap that will guide decisions, even the ones made under remodeling stress. Once work has begun—a process that averages 2 to 3 months—resist changing your mind. Work stoppages and alterations add costs. Some contractors include clauses in their contracts that specify premium prices for changing original plans. If planning isn’t your strong suit, hire a designer. In addition to adding style and efficiency, a professional designer makes sure contractors and installers are scheduled in an orderly fashion. A pro charges $100 to $200 per hour, and spends 10 to 30 hours on a bathroom project.

2. KEEP THE SAME FOOTPRINT
You can afford that Italian tile you love if you can live with the total square footage you already have. Keeping the same footprint, and locating new plumbing fixtures near existing plumbing pipes, saves demolition and reconstruction dollars. You’ll also cut down on the dust and debris that make remodeling so hard to live with. Make the most of the space you have. Glass doors on showers and tubs open up the area. A pedestal sink takes up less room than a vanity. If you miss the storage, replace a mirror with a deep medicine cabinet.

3. MAKE LIGHTING A PRIORITY
Multiple shower heads and radiant heat floors are fabulous adds to a bathroom remodel. But few items make a bathroom more satisfying than lighting designed for everyday grooming. You can install lighting for a fraction of the cost of pricier amenities. Well-designed bathroom task lighting surrounds vanity mirrors and eliminates shadows on faces: You look better already. The scheme includes two ceiling- or soffit-mounted fixtures with 60 to 75 watts each, and side fixtures or sconces providing at least 150 watts each, distributed vertically across 24 inches (to account for people of various heights). Four-bulb lighting fixtures work well for side lighting.

4. CLEAR THE AIR
Bathroom ventilation systems may be out of sight, but they shouldn’t be out of mind during a bathroom remodel. Bathroom ventilation is essential for removing excess humidity that fogs mirrors, makes bathroom floors slippery, and contributes to the growth of mildew and mold. Controlling mold and humidity is especially important for maintaining healthy indoor air quality and protecting the value of your home--mold remediation is expensive, and excess humidity can damage cabinets and painted finishes. A bathroom vent and water closet fan should exhaust air to the outside—not simply to the space between ceiling joists. Better models have whisper-quiet exhaust fans and humidity-controlled switches that activate when a sensor detects excess moisture in the air.

5. THINK STORAGE
Bathroom storage is a challenge: By the time you’ve installed the toilet, shower, and sink, there’s often little space left to store towels, toilet paper, and hair and body products. Here are some ways to find storage in hidden places.
  • Think vertically: Upper wall space in a bathroom is often underused. Freestanding, multi-tiered shelf units designed to fit over toilet tanks turn unused wall area into found storage. Spaces between wall studs create attractive and useful niches for holding soaps and toiletries. Install shelves over towel bars to use blank wall space.
  • Think moveable: Inexpensive woven baskets set on the floor are stylish towel holders. A floor-stand coat rack holds wet towels, bath robes, and clothes.
  • Think utility: Adding a slide-out tray to vanity cabinet compartments provides full access to stored items and prevents lesser-used items from being lost or forgotten.
6. CONTRIBUTE SWEAT EQUITY
Shave labor costs by doing some work yourself. Tell your contractor which projects you’ll handle, so there are no misunderstandings later. Some easy DIY projects:


  • Install window and baseboard trim; save $250.
  • Paint walls and trim, 200 sq.ft.; save $200.
  • Install toilet; save $150.
  • Install towel bars and shelves; save $20 each.
7. CHOOSE LOW-COST DESIGN FOR VISUAL IMPACT
A “soft scheme” adds visual zest to your bathroom, but doesn’t create a one-of-a-kind look that might scare away future buyers.  Soft schemes employ neutral colors for permanent fixtures and surfaces, then add pizzazz with items that are easily changed, such as shower curtains, window treatments, towels, throw rugs, and wall colors. These relatively low-cost decorative touches provide tons of personality but are easy to redo whenever you want.

John Riha has written seven books on home improvement and hundreds of articles on home-related topics. He's been a residential builder, the editorial director of the Black & Decker Home Improvement Library, and the executive editor of Better Homes and Gardens magazine. His standard 1972 suburban house has been an ongoing source of maintenance experience.  

Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. 
 
 
By: Terry Sheridan

Published: January 21, 2011 

Your small kitchen will gain valuable space when you downsize appliances and squeeze extra storage out of unused areas.

Hang ‘em high. Put wire racks on the wall above your sink, add S-hooks, and hang cooking utensils. It’ll free up a drawer or two. The backsplash area--the wall area right above the sink and countertops--is often underutilized and a great place for easy-to-clean, stainless steel racks and shelves. Cost: $50 to $200.

Nooks and crannies. Bare walls above a phone nook or cabinets, and underneath windows, beg for storage. Make use of that open space above your cabinets with store-bought shelves and brackets painted to match the cabinets. Cost: Less than $200.

For a built-in look, build a soffit above the shelves. Cost: less than $2,000.

A freestanding window seat stores rarely used kitchen gadgets and provides additional seating. Cost: $200 to $500.

Cool it already. Do you really need a behemoth 36-inch-wide refrigerator that looks like an entertainment center? Downsize to an 18-cubic-foot refrigerator. If your refrigerator stands at the end of your cabinets, as most do, downsizing could save a foot of space--enough for shelving to store dishes, canned goods, and supplies. Cost: Less than $500.

Don’t need much room for perishables in your small kitchen? Try an under-the-counter 5.7-cubic-foot fridge. Cost: $1,200.

Nuke the clutter. Get the microwave off the counter and into a drawer. Cost: Less than $800. 

Pull-outs. Cutting boards that hide inside your cabinets do double-duty as small kitchen tables or a bill-paying station. Caution: It’s tough to add these to existing cabinets. Consider them as a custom add-on when ordering new cabinets. Cost: $300 or less, plus the cabinets.

Some custom cabinets offer a “drawer” that actually hides a 36-inch extension table. Cost: About $1,000.

Borrow some space. Pantries are easy to create from a nearby closet using shelves and roll-out wire bins from a home improvement center. Cost: $200 to $500.

For a fancier solution, architect Sarah Susanka of Not So Big House suggests using store-bought shelving units and building them into a hallway space. Cost for a 10-foot hallway: $5,000 to $7,500.
Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. 
 
 
By: Jan Soults Walker
Published: January 4, 2011

Chop, dice, prep, and clean without eyestrain—or nicking your thumb with a knife. Under-cabinet lighting eases kitchen chores and shows off your style.

Without under-cabinet lighting, you are likely working in your own shadow at any perimeter countertop. Eliminate dark spots and frustration with under-cabinet fixtures spaced approximately 25 to 30 inches apart.  You can purchase under-cabinet lighting kits, fixtures, bulbs, and other supplies at home centers, lighting stores, and online. Here’s a rundown of the options.

Under-cabinet lighting fixtures
  • Hard-wired under-cabinet lighting systems connect directly to your home’s 120-volt electrical system. The advantage is that the lighting is reliable, wires are completely concealed, and the lighting turns off and on with a convenient wall-mounted switch.  Although costs depend on the type of lighting you choose and the complexity of your project, expect to pay about $300 to $400 for a six-light system, professionally installed in an average 10-by-12-foot kitchen.  A low-voltage system uses a transformer to reduce current to 12 or 24 volts. (Some fixtures feature a built-in transformer.) A low-voltage system uses less electricity than line-voltage fixtures and you may be able to save on labor costs by installing a low-voltage system yourself.  A four-light low-voltage kit with transformer will cost about $35.
  • Plug-in under-cabinet lighting features DIY fixtures that you mount with screws and plug into a nearby wall outlet. The cord will be visible from the bottom of the cabinet to the outlet and the fixtures must be turned on individually. Cost, however, is modest—about $8 per light.
  • Battery-operated under-cabinet lighting skips wiring altogether. The fixtures are inexpensive and easy to install with screws or adhesive backing. The drawback is that you turn them on one at a time and change batteries periodically.  Expect to pay about $20 for one multi-light bar or $30 for a set of 10 individual fixtures.

Bars or pucks?
You’ll find two basic formats for under-cabinet fixtures—light bars and pucks. Light bars are rectangular and stretch light over a wider area. Pucks are small, round, and concentrate light in a smaller area.

What type of light?
  • Fluorescent bulbs produce energy-efficient light with a cool or bluish cast. The bulbs last from 5,000 to 20,000 hours and save money over the long run. Under-cabinet fluorescents cannot be dimmed. To mimic the warmth of incandescent light, select a warm white fluorescent or one with a color temperature rating of 3200K or lower. 
  • LEDs, or light emitting diodes, provide more than 50,000 hours of illumination and are exceptionally energy-efficient. 
  • Zenon is an incandescent light source with a hint of zenon gas for longer life. A zenon bulb lasts about 8,000 to 10,000 hours and emits a pleasing, warm light.
  • Halogen bulbs provide a very intense, directed light but burn especially hot, causing their popularity to wane in recent years.
With four home renovations to her credit, Jan Soults Walker is a devotee of improvements, products, and trends for the home and garden. For 25 years she’s written for a number of national home shelter publications, and has authored 18 books on home improvement and decorating.

Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. 
 
 
By: Jan Soults Walker
Published: December 29, 2010

Low-cost storage strategies bring calm to your kitchen, banishing stress-inducing clutter and leaving the space orderly.

Rack attack: Store pots, everyday dishes, spices, and wine on racks that are freestanding, wall-hung, and ceiling-hung--and voila! Everything is in its own location, visible, and easily accessible! Position the racks where they make sense: A pot rack above the cooktop; a dish rack close to the dishwasher for quick unloading; spices near the range or meal prep area; a wine rack near the wine glasses and dining table. You’ll find racks in metal, wood, and other materials, starting as low as $10 to $15.

Shelf expression: You can size an open shelf to fit anywhere you need it and paint or stain it to match your décor. Use shelves for storing such kitchen necessities as cookbooks, attractive dishware, oils and vinegars, and spices. Home improvement centers have storage sections where you can hunt, but don’t overlook the office supply and bathroom sections for even more low-cost shelves. You’ll find cool shelves starting as low as $8.

Great divide: Organize the contents of kitchen drawers and cabinets with wire or wood inserts. Drawer dividers keep utensils sorted and orderly. Vertical dividers inside cabinets create a spot for storing trays and cookie sheets. You’ll also find special inserts for storing knives and spices neatly inside drawers. Available in wire, wood, or plastic, dividers start at about $3.

Elevated thinking: Wire stacking shelves have legs to elevate the storage surface. Set a stacking shelf on a countertop, existing shelf, or inside a cabinet to increase kitchen storage space. Use a stacking shelf for canned goods, dishware, spices, and more. Prices start at about $6.

Hang ups: Install pegs or hooks along a backsplash, inside cabinets, or anywhere on a kitchen wall to create a place for cups, hot pads, cooking utensils, keys, and recipe clips. Hooks are available that fit over doors or come equipped with magnets that adhere to any metal surface. Pegs and hooks start as low as $1.

Basket case: Baskets come in a variety of materials to complement your décor, from natural woven grasses to canvas to colorful plastic bins. Set baskets on open shelves, inside cupboards, and on the kitchen counter to round up small items, such as napkin rings and bamboo skewers. Baskets are great for storing dish towels, cloth napkins, and coupons. Prices start as low as $1.

With four home renovations to her credit, Jan Soults Walker is a devotee of improvements, products, and trends for the home and garden. For 25 years she’s written for a number of national home shelter publications, and has authored 18 books on home improvement and decorating.

Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. 
 
 
By: John Riha
Published: November 6, 2010

Save money over granite and be kind to your home planet. How? Pick a green kitchen countertop material when you remodel your kitchen.  If you’re replacing your kitchen countertops, it’s smart to go green whether you’re on a tight budget or can afford something luxe. These days, sustainable materials are just as good-looking as traditional countertops like granite or quartz, so making a green choice won’t ding your home’s resale value.  What’s green? Green kitchen countertops feature recycled or sustainable content, low-toxicity binders, eco-friendly manufacturing processes, or a combination. Local production is good, too, if you can arrange it, because transporting countertops is a big fuel-guzzler.  But the most important thing is to pick something durable—if you never have to buy new countertops again, that’s as green as it gets.

These three green kitchen countertop options earn high marks for durability and style. And for value, compare them to the ubiquitous slab granite, which costs $60 to $100 per sq.ft.

1. Recycled paper countertops
  • Cost: Starts at $30/sq ft and, easy install = labor savings
  • Lifespan: TBD because new on the scene, but likely a long time.
It may seem counterintuitive to use paper for a countertop, but when you bind paper fibers with resin, it makes a surface that’s tough as nails. What’s more, they tend to be easy to install. Since installation can equal 80% of your total cost, expect to save on labor.
  • PaperStone is a brand that meets Forest Stewardship Council certification requirements for materials made with sustainable forest management practices and is VOC-free.
  • Squak Mountain Stone is made from recycled paper, recycled glass, reclaimed fly ash, and cement; the finished countertop slabs resemble limestone and soapstone.
  • EcoTop countertops consist of renewable bamboo fiber, post-consumer recycled paper, and water-based 2. Reclaimed wood countertopsEndurawood countertops are made from reclaimed fir and oak. Image: Endurawood
2. Reclaimed wood countertops
  • Cost: Starts at $40/sq ft
  • Lifespan: Lifetime
Reuse trumps recycling when it comes to conserving resources because it keeps products from entering the waste stream. So salvaged wood countertops are green by definition. Purchase them directly at a local salvage supply or through a manufacturer that uses reclaimed materials. Starting at $40 per sq.ft., manufactured countertops made from reclaimed wood are typically more expensive than regular butcher block.  Wood’s a beauty. But it’s prone to water damage, needs occasional re-sealing (or frequent applications of mineral oil, which can be a hassle), and shouldn’t be installed directly next to a sink or dishwasher. So you’ll need to budget for a second material to use in your kitchen.
  • Craft-Art includes a line of wood countertops made of reclaimed wood from older barns, warehouses, and commercial buildings.
  • Endurawood fashions wood countertops from reclaimed fir and oak, including old wine vats.
3. Recycled glass countertopsRecycled glass is gorgeous and tough (you can actually set hot pots directly on it)—but you’ll pay a price comparable to slab granite, starting at around $50 per sq.ft. and going much higher.
  • Vetrazzo makes countertops that are 85% recycled glass. Almost all the glass comes from curbside recycling programs.
  • IceStone, which is 100% recycled glass in a cement substrate, meets Cradle to Cradle gold certification standards, meaning the products contain no problematic chemicals, the materials can be reutilized, and 50% of manufacturing was done with reusable energy.
John Riha has written seven books on home improvement and hundreds of articles on home-related topics. He’s been a residential builder, the editorial director of the Black & Decker Home Improvement Library, and the executive editor of Better Homes and Gardens magazine. His 1972 suburban house has been an ongoing source of maintenance and renovation experience.
 
Karin Beuerlein contributed to this article.
Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. 
 
 
By: Jan Soults Walker
Published: October 1, 2010

A window seat can add as much as 13 cubic feet of valuable storage space that doubles as attractive, usable seating for your home.

Comfort and storage capacity go hand-in-hand when you add a window seat. The benefits of window seats are many: They de-clutter, provide comfy built-in seating, and add architectural appeal to any room.

Types of window seats
Window seats typically are one of three types. Each type can be made with a storage compartment accessible via drawers, doors, open shelves, or a lift-up seat. An average window seat takes up about 13 cubic feet and provides about that much in storage space.
  • Freestanding units are low-cost and portable but aren’t as finished-looking as built-ins. Cost: $200 to $500.
  • Custom-crafted window seats give you exactly the look and style you want and can be made to fit into odd-shaped spaces. They are also the priciest option. Cost: $400 to $1,000.
  • Modular window seats are built using stock kitchen cabinets from a home improvement center. This is a moderately priced option that the average DIYer can tackle. Select quality construction upper cabinets to achieve the proper height for your window seat base. Add a ¾-inch veneered plywood top, a cushion, and a toe-kick base; paint the unit to complete, if needed. Cost: $600 to $800.
Where to add window seat storage
Position versatile window seats in virtually any room. Some options include:
  • For entryway storage, use a window seat to stash boots, shoes, and seasonal or sports gear.
  • In playrooms, a kid-friendly seat is perfect for storing toys and games. Use safety hardware that prevents doors or lids from slamming on fingers or trapping kids inside. Outdoor fabrics work best in a kids’ space for stain-resistance and resilience. Also use quality, washable paints or polyurethane finishes over stains.
  • In a bathroom, cover window seats with outdoor fabrics and moisture-resistant paint. If possible, install the seat so a heating duct vents through the seat base--towels stored inside will be toasty.
  • Niches naturally lend themselves to retrofitting with window seats. Existing niches can be found in a bay window or alcove. Or, your could create a niche by flanking your window using cabinets or bookcases. If you choose to forget the niche, a seat can be successfully positioned on a flat wall.
Window seat installation tips
  • Don’t let a floor or wall vent keep you from installing a window seat; simply redirect the vent toward the window seat’s toe-kick, and provide an opening for heated or cooled air to flow into your room.
  • Your windows will determine the length of your seat; the height (including the seat cushion) should be 18 to 20 inches, and the depth a comfortable 20 to 24 inches to allow for cushions along the back.
  • Building codes require fitting windows near a window seat with tempered glass.
Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.
 
 
By: Jan Soults Walker
Published: October 1, 2010

Gain storage space and usable square footage by installing pocket doors. The swing of a standard interior hinged door eats up as much as 10 square feet of floor space. That’s not to mention the unusable wall space the door occupies when open. By gliding on a track that disappears into the wall, pocket doors reclaim that space and increase the usable square footage of your home.

Is the additional space worth it? It’s not exactly an open and shut case. For starters, unless you’re dealing with new construction, you’ll need to demolish a wall. Here’s what else you need to know before giving the sledgehammer a heave-ho.

Benefits of pocket doors
  • Space. With more available wall space, you have room for furnishings or freestanding storage. However, avoid penetrating the pocket-door wall to hang shelves or artwork—nails or drywall anchors might damage the door or prevent it from sliding. Instead, use adhesive-backed wall hangers. (Easily removable versions that don’t damage walls and hold up to 20 pounds are available).
  • Aesthetics. Create a clean, airy look when you do away with bulky hinged doors. Door styles are limitless.
  • Functionality. People of all ages and abilities can operate pocket doors easily.
Drawbacks of pocket doors
  • Privacy. Because they don’t close as tightly as hinged doors, pocket doors don’t seal out sound well from one room to another.
  • Mess. Installation of a pocket door means demolishing and re-framing a wall, so plan to haul a few wheelbarrow loads of old drywall and wall studs out of your house.
Before demolishing the wall, investigate what you might find inside: plumbing, electrical, heating and cooling ducts. If rerouting these is an option, it will come at a price—anywhere from $300 to $800. You’ll also need to determine if the wall is load-bearing, and if the door opening needs to be reinforced with a header.

What do they cost?Top-quality pocket door kits feature heavy-duty, ball-bearing nylon rollers guaranteed to not jump off their tracks, and studs wrapped in metal to prevent warping. Kits are available to fit 2x4 or 2x6 wall construction. Kit cost: $150 to $350; add $350 to $550 for professional installation, depending on the complexity of the demolition work.

Make sure your door opening is square, plumb, and level. Cut corners on hardware quality or installation procedure and you’ll risk having to redo it all down the road. 

Jan Soults Walker, a nationally published home improvement writer for more than 25 years, has three pocket doors in her house and wishes she had more.
Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.